I have continued work on the open bogie coach. I have cut out the side and end panels from 1mm thick plasticard.
Next, I attached them to the coach, and added some seat supports. Then I cut out the seats themselves. Each one has a groove in it to represent planks of wood.
Finally, I added some buffer beams to the ends of the coach and some U channel to represent the sole bars. The underside of the coach isn’t particularly pretty, but it will be hidden from view.
As everything was assembled I decided to add a few coats of primer. I’m always amazed how much better a model looks after the primer.
Now for a nice livery. I fancy a lightish green…..
In the 7mm Narrow Gauge Association handbook ‘Going Minimum Gauge’ Colin Peake wrote a really good ‘step-by-step’ article showing how to build freelance miniature railway coaches. The article describes how to make a four wheel, eight seater coach. At the end Colin included a photo of a 12 seater bogie coach that you can build using the same approach.
I particularly liked the bogie coach and I decided to try to build one. I’ve never made anything with bogies before. I contacted Colin and he gave me some good advice on which bogies to use and how to brace the underside of the carriage. Thanks Colin!
Armed with all this info I could start.
First, I made the floor of the coach from a 88 x 26 mm piece of 1.5mm thick plasticard. I scored the card at 4mm intervals to represent planking.
I decided to mount the bogies on 2mm diameter bolts. These fit nicely through the existing hole in the Parkside Dundas bogies. I made two pieces of plasticard, drilled a 4mm diameter hole in each one, and araldited the heads of the bolts into the holes (see left hand end of chassis).
The flanges of the wheels protrude slightly above the top of the bogies. I made two small spacers from 0.5mm plasticard (see right hand end of chassis). These increase the gap between the plastic mounts and the bogies and stop the flanges catching on the plastic.
The bogies are held in place with small nuts.
As this is my first bogie vehicle, I wanted to test it before I went any further. I tried it on my test track, weighted down with the first piece of lead that came to hand. I was pleased to see it negotiated the 9½ inch (approx. 24cm) radius curves on the test track without any problems (click the image to view the video).
Great 🙂 Now, on with the rest of the build.
Here is the finished Unit Models O9 box van.
No rocket science was involved in finishing it, although a steady hand was useful when painting the iron work details.
I used Humbrol acrylics for the basic colours. The body is German Camoflage (160) with Dirty Black (RC401) for the iron work and Engineers Grey (RC413) for the roof.
The weathering was done by drybrushing with Citadel acrylics. Ulthuan Grey to create a worn look, XV88 mixed with a small amount of Doombull Brown for the rust effect, some Stirland Mud around the bottom of the door and a hint of Caliban Green in places on the roof. A few coats of varnish, some couplings and ‘job done’.
I’m rather pleased with it. Many thanks to David Gander for giving me the original kit.
I’ve been working on the Unit Models box van I’m building. I glued the chassis mount molding to the floor of the van. I added a sheet of lead to the floor inside the van to provide some additional weight. I can add more lead to the chassis but I’m not sure I’ll need it.
Next, I glued the roof on. The araldite sets quite slowly so I held it in place with rubber bands. The pieces of coffee stirrer were supposed to spread out the pressure over a larger area to help the roof stick down along the sides of the van. I’ve no idea if it made a difference but it seemed like a good idea at the time!
When the roof had set, I stuck on the Peco wagon chassis. I wondered if the van would look better with slightly larger axle boxes. I created some dummy axle boxes from plasticard and stuck them over the originals.
Next, I’ll give the van a good clean, and paint it with primer.
At a recent Beds and Buck Narrow Gauge Meeting David Gander kindly gave me an unmade kit of a Unit Models O9 Box Van.
I was very pleased for several reasons. Mostly, because it’s a very kind gift (thanks David!). Also, Unit Models is passing to a new owner and these kits are hard to find at the moment. Finally, it’s a nice model, with crisp moldings and the style fits in well with the O9 wagons I’ve been scratch building.
It would be really easy to make the kit but I wondered if I could add a bit more detail to the body.
I have a pack of Grandt Line 32 thou diameter rivets I haven’t used. I thought these would look good on the iron work of the box van. 32 thou is roughly 1.4 inches in 7mm scale which seems about right.
The rivets come with a plastic shank that can be fitted into a 0.4mm diameter hole in the model. This helps anchor the rivet in place.
One rivet equals one hole, so I set about marking out and drilling 64 holes in the body. It was a good test of how accurately I can mark out and drill. I made a cardboard template to help position the holes.
The final effect looks good – but it took ages to do!
A little while ago mrfagsy asked if I could post a video of my stock. I don’t take a lot of videos but here you are mrfagsy, this is especially for you. (Click on the image to start the show).
The stars of this Hollwood extravaganza are my ‘test track’ and all of my O9 stock.
The ‘test track’ is a scrap of plywood salvaged from a skip with some set track brought from ebay.
The loco is an A1 Models O9 brass kit, with a kato mechanism, plasticard chassis and axle boxes built from 2mm diameter bolts and odd bits of plastic.
The wagons are scratchbuilt from plasticard and run on Peco N gauge wagon chassis. I use Greenwich couplings.
Not much more I can say, except, I hope the camera movement doesn’t make you feel sea sick!
… and the wagons are brown. Humbrol German Camouflage (160) to be precise.
I do like the colour. In fact, I got so excited by the warm, red-brown I forgot to photograph them before I weathered them!
All three wagons are the same colour. One appears to be lighter because it has received less weathering with Citadel ‘Stirland Mud’ and a bit more Citadel ‘Ulthuan Grey’.
If you are interested you can follow how I made them here (you’ll need to scroll down the page…).